It´s in their blood (Está en su sangre)

Texto y fotografías: Cris Veit

Cuatro millones de peruanos, el 12,5% de la población del país, concurre por año a las más de 700 corridas de toros que se llevan a cabo en todo su territorio. Es una tradición de casi 500 años (existe el documento que la primera corrida de toros tuvo lugar en 1560 en Cusco) hondamente arraigada en el país. Y es una tradición familiar: abuelos, padres e hijos disfrutan la emoción de las corridas de toros de todo tipo: las sangrientas, con la muerte de los animales en manos de toreros profesionales y las divertidas, donde payasos desarmados juegan con toros y vacas. Los niños concurren a las corridas de toros desde muy pequeños y sueñan con convertirse en toreros de grandes, manteniendo la tradición andina.

Las “corridas” tienen lugar por lo menos una vez por año en pueblos, ciudades y aldeas, generalmente relacionadas con las fiestas patronales dedicadas al patrono del lugar.

Las celebraciones duran varios días e incluyen misas, procesiones, bandas de música y danzas típicas interpretadas por las “pallas” (grupo de mujeres jóvenes vestidas con disfraces y máscaras), hay comidas colectivas con sopa criolla, cerveza, litros y litros de cerveza tibia.

Los toros de los espectáculos provienen de ranchos ganaderos importantes donde los animales son criados a campo abierto.

Luego de que mueren en la arena son vendidos a carniceros locales. A pesar de la tradición, hay movimientos anti corrida de toros en el país. “Perú Antitaurino”, el movimiento anti corridas, generalmente convoca a protestar y a marchar con el objetivo de pedirle a las autoridades peruanas que erradiquen las corridas de toros.

Pero hasta ahora, la fuerza y el espíritu indomable de los toros de las corridas han emocionado y apasionado a millones de peruanos.

Estas fotos fueron tomadas en julio y septiembre de 2018 en la región de Ancash, en la región norte central de los Andes y en abril 2019 en Ayacucho en el sur central del Perú.

: Night falls, but the people of the village still enjoy dance, drink and food after an afternoon of defying bulls. 15 July 2018, Chichuacancha, Peru

: A harsh life without prospects has led young people to move from small villages in the Ancash region to larger cities. How long will the traditions of “fiestas patronales” and bullfighting continue for this generation? 17 July 2018, Huallanca, Peru

: A harsh life without prospects has led young people to move from small villages in the Ancash region to larger cities. How long will the traditions of “fiestas patronales” and bullfighting continue for this generation? 17 July 2018, Huallanca, Peru

: A harsh life without prospects has led young people to move from small villages in the Ancash region to larger cities. How long will the traditions of “fiestas patronales” and bullfighting continue for this generation? 9 July 2018, Huaraz, Peru

: A harsh life without prospects has led young people to move from small villages in the Ancash region to larger cities. How long will the traditions of “fiestas patronales” and bullfighting continue for this generation? 9 July 2018, Huaraz, Peru

: It is cultural. Visual traces and references to bulls can be seen in every corner of small towns. from graffiti and facade paintings to small altars, like this one. 16 July 2018, Huallanca, Peru

: Sarita Huayaney, 15, is one of the many youngsters who fled the small towns in the Ancash region to study and look for better life in bigger cities. As most of them, she comes back home for the “fiestas patronales” to meet family and friends. 21 Sept 2018, San Nicolas, Peru

: From inside the bus that makes the Lima-Huaraz route, one sees a field where peppers dry in the sun. 8 July 2018, Ancash Region, Peru

: Life goes on its normal rhythm in Olleros. In three days, however, the small town will be filled with visitors and excitement for the patron saint celebration and bullfight. 17 Sept 2018, Olleros, Peru

: Kids from a school rehearse for parade day on the streets of Huallanca, a mining city in the Ancash region. 17 July 2018, Huallanca, Peru

: A young girl strolls with her scooter among musicians playing on the main square of Chavin de Huantar. 13 July 2018, Chavin de Huantar, Peru

: Rose petals thrown during a procession of grace the path for a musician. 24 Sept 2018, Jangas, Peru

: Masked negritos and people dance in front of Recuay’s church, during the “fiesta patronal” Señor de Burgos. 15 Sept 2018, Recuay, Peru.

: Typical Ancash region scene: the mountains embrace Huallanca’s arena, as a tuk tuk passes by. 17 July 2018, Huallanca, Peru

: It is cultural. Visual traces and references to bulls can be seen in every corner of small towns. from graffiti and facade paintings to small altars, like this one. 16 July 2018, Huallanca, Peru

: The musicians are already in town for the 4 day celebration of but the main church is still being painted. 13 July 2018, Chavin de Huantar, Peru

: One man sleeps standing, other pees on a street in Recuay, after hours of drinking beer during a “fiesta patronal” parade. 14 Sept 2018, Recuay, Peru

: Outside Marcara’s arena, a woman protects her hat from the rain. 16 Sept 2018, Marcara, Peru

: Full house at the bleachers in Marcara’s arena. 16 Sept 2018, Marcara, Peru

: Children watch bullfights at a very young age. 15 July 2018 Chichucancha, Peru

: Beer, liters and liters of warm beer are part of the “fiestas patronales” and bullfighting scenario. 15 Sept 2018, Recuay, Peru

: From whole roasted pigs to quail eggs, from popcorn to french fries. Cakes, jelly, chicha, beer. Food and drink are an extra attraction at the bullfight. 16 Sept 2018, Marcara, Peru

: Each town and village holds different traditions for the “fiestas” and the “corridas”. In Recuay, before the bullfight, villagers offer sheep to the patrons who organized the event. 15 Sept 2018, Recuay, Peru

: Each town and village holds different traditions for the “corridas”. In Marcara, before the bullfight, candies and plastic goods are thrown as gift for the viewers. 16 Sept 2018, Marcara, Peru

: Kids ask for the dead bull’s ear – a trophy earned by a brave torero. 15 Sept 2018, Recuay, Peru

: Locals buying tickets at a stall in Marcara’s bullfighting arena. Marcara is a popular bullfighting spot, with affordable prices, but tickets to watch a professional bullfight can be expensive, costing up to 40 soles per person (12 US dollars) a lot of money for the inhabitants of poor rural villages.16 Sept 2018, Marcara, Peru

: A group of “negrito” dancers parades the streets of Recuay on the festival that antecedes the town’s “corrida de toros”. This dance group is formed by people wearing black clothes, a band of colored ribbons, a cane, a bell and a hat with flowers. The leader of the gang called Chiwa Shapra carries a whip with which he hits the floor strongly, opening the way for the dancers. 14 Sept 2018, Recuay, Peru

: After the communal lunch, locals follow the musicians downhill to the bullfighting arena, as in a procession. 21Sept 2018, San Nicolas, Peru

: Freshly painted signs on a house’s wall indicate the way to the bullfighting arena (Plaza Tardes Taurinas). The biggest social event in the region, “corridas” attracts visitors from neighboring districts. 20 Sept 2018, Olleros, Peru

: Kids on the street in Recuay wait for the party that is about to begin. On the wall, posters calling for the bullfighting that will take place in the following days. 14 Sept 2018, Recuay, Peru

: Musicians tune the instruments before starting to play in the street for the celebration of the “fiesta patronal” in Chavin. 15 July 2018, Chavin de Huantar, Peru

: A group of women prepare traditional cuy (guinea pig) for a comunal lunch during the festivities in Chavin de Huantar. There is evidence that the guinea pig was bred in the Andean region of Peru around 3,500 BC. Remains of these animals have been found in the tombs of the ancient Peruvian settlers. 15 July 2018, Chavin de Huantar, Peru

: A cock fight is part of the celebration of the “fiesta patronal” in Chavin. 13 July 2018, Chavin de Huantar, Peru

: A communal lunch is served before the bullfighting in San Nicolas. People from the village, the clowns who will face the bulls, the musicians, everybody fed on four huge pigs that have been donated to the fiesta. 21 Sept 2018 San Nicolas, Peru

: A communal lunch is served before the bullfighting in San Nicolas. People from the village, the clowns who will face the bulls, the musicians, everybody fed on four huge pigs that have been donated to the fiesta. 21 Sept 2018 San Nicolas, Peru

: A cock fight is part of the celebration of the “fiesta patronal” in Chavin. 13 July 2018, Chavin de Huantar, Peru

: A cock fight is part of the celebration of the “fiesta patronal” in Chavin. 13 July 2018, Chavin de Huantar, Peru

: A woman passes in front of a colorful house in Chavin de Huantar. 14 July 2018, Chavin de Huantar, Peru

: “Amazonas” and “caballeros”, who will perform riding horses and do dance acts before the bullfight, finish lunch in Chavin de Huantar. 18 July 2018, Chavin de Huantar, Peru

: One bull gets nervous and breaks part of the wall that confines it. The animal will take part in the afternoon bullfighting at Recuay’s “coso taurino” (arena). 15 Sept 2018, Recuay, Peru

: A “picador” ( horseman in a Spanish bullfight that jab the bull with a lance) waits for the beginning of the bullfighting in Recuay’s arena. 15 Sept 2018, Recuay, Peru

: A young man prepares horses for “picadores” (horsemen in a Spanish bullfight that jab the bull with a lance) waits for the beginning of the bullfighting in Recuay’s arena. 15 Sept 2018, Recuay, Peru

: Sopa criolla” a typical soup made with ground beef and pasta cooked in a broth with spicy milk is served at a comunal breakfast during the “fiesta patronal” in the district of Machac.12 July 2018, Machac, Peru

: A woman prepares traditional cuy (guinea pig) for a comunal lunch during the festivities in Chavin de Huantar. There is evidence that the guinea pig was bred in the Andean region of Peru around 3,500 BC. Remains of these animals have been found in the tombs of the ancient Peruvian settlers. 15 July 2018, Chavin de Huantar, Peru

: The bulls that will take part in the afternoon bullfighting at Recuay’s “coso taurino” (arena). 15 Sept 2018, Recuay, Peru

: Workers of a “ganadeira” near the town of Huallanca lead the bulls to the truck that will take them to the arena of Chavin de Huantar. 18 July 2018, Huallanca, Peru

: Very early in the morning, the workers of a “ganadeira” near the town of Huallanca gather the bulls that will be taken to the “corrida” in Chavin de Huantar’s arena.18 July 2018, Huallanca, Peru

: Don Luis Barranachea helps workers of his “ganadeira” near the town of Huallanca gather the bulls that will be taken to the “corrida” in Chavin de Huantar’s arena.18 July 2018, Huallanca, Peru

: A group of “pallas” dances at the end of a day of bullfighting in Olleros. The wide long sleeves of their costume represent the wings of the condor, the bird that is national symbol of Peru and plays an important role in the folklore and mythology of the Andean regions. 20 Sept 2018 Olleros, Peru

: Boys stand on the wooden bleachers of the Recuay arena. Each year more than 700 “corridas” are held in Peru. There are about 250 “plazas de toros“ (bullrings) in the country and, where there are no built structures, temporary leased arenas are set up. 15 Sept 2018, Recuay, Peru

: Mariel Ruiz Mendizabal checks the arena at Chavin the Huantar. She will perform as “amazona”, riding a “caballo de paso peruano”, the Peruvian Paso horse, an equine breed native to Peru. 18 July 2018, Chavin de Huantar, Peru

: A group of “pallas” young women dressed in costumes and masks, rests after having danced early in the morning during the “fiesta patronal” in the district of Machac. 12 July 2018, Machac, Peru

: A gril climbs the improvised arena built for “corrida” but here the clowns only play with the bulls, with no killing of animals. 21 Sept 2018, San Nicolas, Peru

: A young “palla” gets dressed in her costume with the help of her mother before going on procession during the “fiesta patronal” in the town of Jangas. 24 Sept 2018 Jangas, Peru

: View of Cordillera Blancaand Huascarán National Park, considered a nature world heritage site by UNESCO. 23 Sept 2018, Ancash Region, Peru

: The city of Huaraz, capital of Ancash region, with the snowy peaks of Cordillera Blanca in the back. Huascarán peak, is considered the highest mountain in the tropics, and is part of Huascarán National Park, considered a nature world heritage site by UNESCO. In 1970, 95% of the city was destroyed by an earthquake that damaged a great part of Ancash Region. 25,000 people died. 21 Sept 2018, Huaraz, Peru

: “El Poeta” waits anxiously for his entrance in Chavin the Huantar’s arena. 18 July 2018, Chavin de Huantar, Peru

: Young bullfighters and a Marinera (girl who will perform the Marinera dance as opening act for the bullfighters) wait anxiously for their entrance in Chavin the Huantar. 18 July 2018, Chavin de Huantar, Peru

: All eyes and cell phone screens turn to David Fernandez, a skilled young bullfighter coming from Spain, in the end of an afternoon of a bullfight in Recuay.15 Sept 2018, Recuay, Peru

: The snowy peaks of Huascaran, Peru’s highest mountain, frame Ranrahirca’s “coso taurino” (arena), where a “corrida de toros” (bullfighting) takes place. 22 Sept 2018, Ranrahirca, Peru

: Javier Dias “El Javi”, professional bullfighter from Peru in Recuay during the “fiesta patronal” Señor de Burgos. 15 Sept 2018, Recuay, Peru.

: Clowns exhausted from running from the bull at a “corrida” in Olleros. Shows with clowns with no killing of the animals are typical to smaller villages who have no money to afford paying professional bullfighters. Peru21 Sept 2018, San Nicolas, Peru

: Don Luis Barranachea (right, with the hat) watches as one of the five bulls from his “ganadeira” gets killed in the end of the bullfight in Chavin de Huantar. 18 July 2018, Chavin de Huantar, Peru

: The snowy peaks of Huascaran, Peru’s higher mountain, frame Ranrahirca’s “coso taurino” (arena), where a “corrida de toros” (bullfighting) takes place. 22 Sept 2018, Ranrahirca, Peru

: The snowy peaks of Huascaran, Peru’s highest mountain, frame Ranrahirca’s “coso taurino” (arena), where a “corrida de toros” (bullfighting) takes place. 22 Sept 2018, Ranrahirca, Peru

: The snowy peaks of Huascaran, Peru’s highest mountain, frame Ranrahirca’s “coso taurino” (arena), where a “corrida de toros” (bullfighting) takes place. 22 Sept 2018, Ranrahirca, Peru

: Bullfighting in Recuay during the “fiesta patronal” Señor de Burgos. 15 Sept 2018, Recuay, Peru.

: In the small village of Chichucancha, people gather to play with bulls in a “corrida” where there is no killing of the animals. 15 July 2018, Chichucancha, Peru

: Attending a bullfight is a familiar tradition in Peru: grandparents, parents and children enjoy the excitement of a “corrida” in the town of Marcara. 16 Sept 2018 Marcara, Peru

: The snowy peaks of Huascaran, Peru’s higher mountain, frame Ranrahirca’s “coso taurino” (arena), where a “corrida de toros” (bullfighting) takes place. 22 Sept 2018, Ranrahirca, Peru

: A group of kids examines a dead bull at the end of a “corrida” in Chavin de Huantar. Children watch bullfights at a very young age. 18 July 2018, Chavin de Huantar, Peru

: In the small village of Chichucancha, people gather to play with bulls in a “corrida” where there is no killing of the animals. 15 July 2018, Chichucancha, Peru